Beating a Deadhorse

 I woke to the sound of a howling dog, I was grumpy as I didn't get much sleep due to the daylight conditions.  I initially got angry at the camp site manager, until I listened a little closer... it was coming from multiple directions and was no dog.  I have a natural respectful fear of all large predators, however, I feel like wolves are nothing to mess with.  Although the howling was a good distance away, I realized that we were the only people in this camp, outside of the manager... but he was in his RV!  Picturing the headlines of Brother and Sister eaten by wolves, we decided to pack up and head further North.   

 

We drove north, through the Gates of the Arctic National Park.  It is home to the Brooks Mountain Range, which separates the norther flat tundra from the rest of Alaska.  We drove over the Antigun Pass at above 4,000 ft, and down into the tundra.  The pipeline continued to follow the road at times.  It is elevated in areas to allow the wildlife to pass under.  I was a little disappointed to not see any muskox, but we did get to see a very elusive Snowy Owl.  The tundra was a unique landscape with vast marshy flat areas that don't provide enough soil depth to provide for any large vegetation.

 

Prudhoe Bay and Deadhorse (two names, one town), is at the northern most point of the Dalton Highway.  It is the center for the oil fields on the arctic ocean.  It is a strange industrial place, where the gas station isn't even manned.  We had to enter a building, and swipe our card in an ATM like machine, then we entered our pump number, fueled up, and had to return inside to confirm the purchase.  There is not much to see, as they have closed off the oil fields for visitors for security reasons.  We drove around the town and asked where we could get some lunch.  They directed us to the hotel, where they had a cafeteria.  The local employees all have an agreement with the hotel, that all the food they want is free.  Upon entering the hotel, we had to put on boot covers on our shoes, as it tends to get pretty dirty up there, and the hotel can't keep up with the dirt.  We had to pay $11 to gain access to the cafeteria.  It was a great filling lunch and ended with a root beer float, that I left on the dashboard, and when Laura opened the door, the wind blew in, knocking the float to the ground where it exploded all over the car!  After a little cleanup, we hit the road back to the south, having driven from the Southern tip of South America to the Northern most point in Alaska!

There is only one road up here, so we started driving back the way we came.  We decided to stop and take a closer look at the melting ice blocks that look out of place in the river bed.  The entire river bed freezes in the winter, and when it melts, it leaves ice blocks that melt in a way to leave strange ice sticks.  Laura enjoyed the fact the I turned into a 5 year old for a few minutes, while I kicked them, sending the sticks cascading down and forming cool patterns.  We deemed them to look a little Krypton-esk, and decided to move on before they drained too much of my powers.

 

 

 

 

 

On the drive back through the Brooks Range and into Coldfoot, we had developed a Moose call.  Laura really wanted to see one... Herrrrre Moosy Moosy MoosEEEEE! We thought we were out of luck, and I was in cruise mode heading into Coldfoot when Laura shouted "MOOSE RIGHT F-ING THERE!"  In which the only natural reaction is to slam on the breaks... which of course scared the moose up into the woods!  Next time Laura said she would calmly tell me to ease off the gas and come to a calm stop!

 

We got back into Coldfoot around 6pm and visited the National Park Visitor Center, where the Rangers told us we were crazy for driving up to Deadhorse and back in one day.  After a quick snack and some reading, we though... we aren't tired, and we ARE crazy, why don't we drive until we are tired.  We got back to the Arctic Circle camp grounds around 8pm, and still weren't tired.  We got even further before we were committed, we might as well keep going and crash in Fairbanks.  About an hour and half from Fairbanks, we came across a car limping along on a flat tire.  As we pulled up I noticed the donut already on the back and realized it was their second flat!  I asked if I could help and explained that our tires wouldn't fit on their car, when I noticed the kids in the back.  We offered to take his wife to Fairbanks where she could pick up their truck and head back up to get them. I still wonder what they were doing on the Dalton Hwy with kids in a Ford Escape at 10:30 at night?  Either way, we dropped her off at her car around midnight and made our way to a hotel for a much needed shower, and full night sleep in a bed.  An 18-hr drive on a remote highway will really take it out of you.